Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Can You Buy a House?

Buying a home is a huge step in life and it can also be very complicated. If you are considering purchasing your first home, there are a few things you need to consider before making your final decision.

What can I actually afford? Be VERY careful about this one! You will see advertisements for low payments on high dollar homes, but is it for real? The payments are nearly never as inexpensive as you are led to believe they will be. So sit down with a pencil, paper, and calculator and add up the following:

  • The basic mortgage payment including principal and interest ____________ (go to www. bankrate.com to have some estimates calculated for you)
  • š The annual taxes of the home (divided by 12) _______________
  • š The annual homeowners insurance premium (divided by 12) ______________
  • š If you can not pay a 20% down payment, also add about $60 monthly for every $100,000 of the debt for Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) _________________

The total will be close to your ACTUAL mortgage payment to the mortgage company every month.


Okay, now once you have those numbers, add on (or subtract if applicable) the following:

Does this home have a Homeowners Association Fee? _____________

š Is it going to cost me more for transportation? _________________

š Is the electric bill higher on average than my current bill? ___________ (You can find this out by calling the power company and asking about the average usage.)

š Will the water bill cost more? ____________

š Can I afford to keep up the maintenance/repairs of the home? ______________ (figure 1% annually of the home’s value)

If, after adding all of that up, you still think you can swing the monthly cost of home ownership, make sure you can cover the up-front costs:

š At least 5% down payment or $5,000 for every $100,000 of the selling price

š 2% for mortgage closing costs (can usually be financed by the mortgage company, but will decrease your equity).

š Whatever amount you need for purchasing appliances (most sellers do not leave refrigerators, washers, dryers, or stand-alone microwaves behind)

š Whatever amount you need to make immediate home repairs/improvements (every home has something that needs to be done to it).

š The amount needed to move

š The amount needed for a good-quality initial home inspection (DON’T skimp on this!!)

š The amount needed to pay for a home warranty, unless the seller agrees to pay it.

So, when all lights are green and you are ready to go, keep a few thoughts in mind that can save you money and your sanity.

Try to avoid mortgages that have a low payment at the beginning, but will increase later, because you may be in your home longer than you think, and these types of mortgages are primarily responsible for the incredible number of homes that are starting to go into foreclosure.

Realize that you can eliminate the burdens of PMI by getting a Mortgage and a Home Equity loan, but the added cost of interest and payments on the Equity loan generally makes the total monthly cost break even. Sometimes it can even be worse because you can occasionally get rid of PMI within just a few years if your home’s value rises enough, but a Home Equity loan only goes away if you pay it off or if you refinance your entire mortgage (and pay another 2-3% in mortgage closing costs.)

If you have had your home for a couple of years and suspect that the value has increased substantially. Find out what your home’s value potentially is, and if you’re sure you’re your debt is less than 80% of the value, you can contact your mortgage company and they will come and do an appraisal (at your expense). If your debt truly is only 80% of the value, you will no longer have to pay the Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI).

Take your time to find the right house. It is better to find a smaller house that you can afford than a bigger house that will keep you up at night worrying if you can continue juggling it all. Besides, it is fun to test your creativity to see how much functionality you can get out of a small space.

It is also better to buy the smallest house in a good neighborhood, than a bigger home in a bad neighborhood.

Don’t feel pressured to purchase a home if you are not ready yet. There are lots of people out there who think that a home is a wonderful investment. Unfortunately, if you are not ready to buy, it can be a financial disaster.

The Difference In Credit Cards

Maybe you are thinking of applying for a credit card for one reason or another. Before you do, it is very important to read and know what the disclosure page means. Here are the meanings of the most important terms on the disclosure page to help you find the card that is right for you.

Introductory APR (Annual Percentage Rate): This is a low rate that lasts only for a little while. It is there to entice you to get the credit card. You will also see in this section how long the “introductory period” is. Often it is 6, 12, 15, or 18 months. You will notice these cards in the mail immediately because they say something like “2.99% until June 2007!” The better your credit is, the better the offers will be.

APR after the introductory period: This is what your rate will be after the initial time frame is over. Most credit cards have several different interest rates depending on how the balance was initiated.

§ Purchase APR is the rate that you pay when you swipe your card at say, a grocery store and sign your name.

§ Balance Transfer APR is the rate you pay when you transfer a balance from another credit card or loan to this credit card (generally to save money)

§ Cash advance APR is generally the highest rate (often over 20%), it is when you take your credit card to a bank or an ATM and get cash.

§ Default or delinquency APR: the rate you pay if you ever pay this (or sometimes any other) credit card even a few days late.

Each APR will be quoted to you in one of two ways:

FIXED: This means that unless you pay late on your card, your interest rate will never change (unless they notify you in advance).

VARIABLE: This means that your credit card interest can change as often as monthly and it will be expressed as prime + a rate. For example Prime (currently 7.5%) plus 9.99% would be 17.49% until prime rate changed. If the federal prime rate went to 7.75%, your interest rate would then be 17.74%.

Grace Period for the repayment of balance for Purchases: Generally between 20 and 30 days, this refers to the minimum number of days you have to repay a purchase before you have to start paying interest. Example: If you buy a new pot set at Target on May 15, you will have at least until June 3 to pay the balance off before the credit card starts charging you interest. PLEASE NOTE: There are NO Grace periods on Cash advances, ever!

Method of computing the balance for purchases: Will generally be expressed in one of two ways. Both calculations work in your favor while accumulating debt, and in your detriment while paying off debt (Clever, considering that most people spend much more time paying-off than accumulating.)

  • Average Daily Balance (including new purchases) This means that if you don’t pay your balance in full every statement, your balance over the month will be averaged and you will pay interest based on the average balance. Example: Your previous balance was $500 and then you buy groceries on week 1 for $50, week 2 for $25, and week 3 for $75. Your average daily balance would be approximately $579 even though your current balance is $650.
  • Two-Cycle Average Daily Balance (including new purchases) This works the same as above, but over a two-month period. This can be very bad while paying down a balance. Example: You had a $5,000 balance last month but paid $500 toward the principal. This month your balance is only $4,500, but you have to pay interest on $4,750! Yikes!

Annual Fee: You should never pay a fee just for having a credit card. Don’t apply for cards that charge annual membership fees.

Minimum finance charge: The lower this number is the better, some even have none. It really only makes a difference if your balance is always really small anyway.

Transaction fee for cash advance: Usually about 3% with a minimum and maximum dollar amount listed—ie. min. $5 max $75. This is the fee that you pay just to do a cash advance (in addition to the fact that cash advances begin to accrue interest immediately). Steer clear of cash advances unless your only other option is a high-priced loan. In all my years of banking, I have only seen one credit card with no cash advance fee, and most people don’t qualify for it.

Balance Transfer fee or convenience check fee: Also generally about 3% with a minimum and maximum fee threshold. You are charged this fee if you use this credit card to pay off another credit card or loan or transfer money into your checking account.

You may also notice that some cards offer cash back, points, or frequent flyer miles. You can often even find these “rewards cards” with no annual fees. They are great cards for people who will pay off the card every month, and who won’t be tempted to spend more to get more rewards. For people who are a little less disciplined, they are not worth the extra interest rate that these cards generally carry.

Five Amazing things $50 can do

Do you want to reduce your spending, but can’t find any really good motivation to? Here are a few incredible things that you could do with only $50 a month!

š Pay off your mortgage 3 years early. That would save you a total of nearly $30,000 in payments. (Assumption: $200,000 30-year mortgage at 6%). Just think of how nice it would be not to have to make a house payment every month.

š Drastically cut down your credit cards. Forget about paying the minimums; a $10,000 credit card at 18% would take 32 years to pay off that way. Instead, add $50 to your payment on that card, keep paying the same amount until it is gone, and you will pay it off in 4 years instead. You will be laughing all the way to the bank because you will have saved yourself over $10,000 worth of interest.

š Have more in your retirement account. After 30 years at about 10% a year, $50 a month turns into a pretty nice amount--$113,000 to be exact.

š Get in life insurance. Want a little peace of mind? Make sure you have enough coverage to protect your family in case something happens to you or your spouse. A healthy couple in their early thirties can get about $300,000 of total term coverage for $50 a month.

š Give it to charity. You know that for many families in poor countries, your $50 is the equivalent of several months’ income. However, please research your chosen charity carefully to beware of fraud. Bonus: You may be able to deduct the annual amount from your income for your federal tax return.

Want to see more customized numbers? Check out the calculator sections on www.bankrate.com.

Should You Get a Home Equity Loan?

For nearly every family that has both a home and other debt, this question eventually comes up. Because every circumstance is unique, I can not answer the question for you, but I can give you some facts and tools that will help you make an informed decision.

Basic Information

A Home Equity Loan allows you to borrow money from the equity in your home to pay off debts, add improvements to your home, or use however you want. The equity in your home is the difference between what your home is worth and what you owe. For example, if your home is worth $300,000 and you owe $200,000, you have $100,000 in equity. Most of the time you can get a loan for that entire amount, sometimes even more (although that is generally very unwise). With a Home Equity loan, the amount you borrow, the payments, and the interest rate are fixed. A home equity line of credit (HELOC) uses your equity in the same way, except the borrowed amount, interest rate and payments can all be variable like a credit card.

Favorable

If you talk to a banker about getting a home equity loan or line of credit, you will hear many arguments in favor of having one. They include:

  • š The interest is generally tax-deductible
  • š Your payments will probably be lower than on your credit cards/other loans
  • š You will send only one payment instead of several (making it less likely to pay late)
  • š Your interest rate is often lower

Unfavorable

Bankers tend to ignore some very good reasons NOT to get a loan or line of credit on your home:

  • š People who have lots of debt on credit cards tend to continue or even worsen their debting after consolidating the previous debt on an equity loan/line. This practice causes many to lose their homes or file for bankruptcy.
  • š If you can not pay a credit card, your credit is ruined, but if you can not pay a home equity loan/line they take your home away.
  • š If you use the equity in your home, it makes it much more difficult and expensive to upgrade to another home. If your home value has gone up 50% in the last 2 years, so have all the other homes around you. If you don’t have enough equity in your home, you will have to take out a bigger loan to buy a nicer/larger home.


What to know before you shop

If you tell a banker you want a home equity loan or line of credit, be assured that they will almost always do all within their power to convince you it is the right thing to do. However, do a little homework beforehand to see if it makes sense for you. You can run a bunch of really cool calculations on www.bankrate.com to see how beneficial it would really be for you to get a home equity loan/line.

Don’t ever just get one offer—make sure to check around at several banks, credit unions, and online banks. There is no one bank that always has the best rates and terms for every person in every circumstance. Even if you shopped before and found the best bank for a previous loan, this one may be different.

Know what the going interest rate is, but look at more than just the rate—ask your bank a few questions about the loan/line. What if I pay off early? Is there an early payoff fee? What are your options for terms, can I do a 5, 10, 15, 20 year term? How much are the closing costs? Are there any other fees? Under what circumstances could I get a lower rate?

Other Options

Usually, the best option for paying down debts is by looking carefully at cuts you can make in your spending and then adding that to your current payments. If done with discipline, this can actually save you MORE money than if you had just consolidated everything and put it on a home equity loan. See my article: “What you need to know to get out of Credit Card Debt” for accelerated payoff details.


Another option sometimes available, is asking the credit card company to lower your rate. If you have been a good customer for awhile, they are likely to want to keep your business. If they don’t work with you, you can try to transfer your balances to lower interest cards. Unfortunately, if you have substantial balances, this can be difficult to do since new cards often have lower credit limits.

What You Need to Know Before Getting a Mortgage

When you first try to get a mortgage, you will probably be bombarded with a bunch of jargon that may as well be Greek. Unfortunately, sometimes the only explanations offered by your Real Estate Agent or Mortgage officers are those that are aimed at trying to get you into get the biggest possible mortgage. Here are a few of the most common terms and what they mean for you.

Traditional Mortgage (also known as a fixed-rate mortgage): Is a standard mortgage with no special bells or whistles. It is usually the best for people who want a fixed rate and a fixed payment for as long as they stay in the home. You can usually get one of two types: a 30-year or a 15 year. Although the interest is lower on a 15-year, making them a much better deal, the payments are about 1 ½ times the amount of a 30-year and are therefore harder for most people to afford. If you are planning to stay in your home for awhile, a traditional mortgage is likely the best option for you.

Interest Only Mortgage: This type of mortgage is aimed at people who think they are earning less now than they will be in a few years, but want to buy a nicer home now. What it means is that you only pay the interest on your mortgage instead of principal & interest. It does make your payment lower now, but be careful! The payments will increase to include the principal at a specified future date. Often the interest rate increases as well. If your income does not increase in kind, you could end up in foreclosure. Also, keep in mind that your mortgage balance will not decrease unless you make extra payments.

Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM): Also makes payments lower for the first few years because they can offer you a lower rate to start out with. You are paying both interest and principal, but your payments will go up after the first term is over because the interest rate is then a higher fluctuating rate. Generally, the introductory rate is good for between 1 and 7 years. The longer you lock in the introductory rate, the higher the rate is and closer to the traditional 30-year-mortgage.

Points: Extra money you can pay up-front to lower your interest rate. Each point is equal to 1% of the amount mortgaged. Make sure to check whether a quoted rate assumes the payment of points or not.

Closing Costs: Are part of nearly all mortgages and tend to be between 1.5-3% of the mortgaged amount. Here are a few very common expenses included in the term “closing costs”. Keep in mind that there are many other fees that can be included:

š Appraisal Fee: amount you pay to appraise the home (generally $300-$500)

š Credit Report Fee: amount it costs to get a credit report (about $20)

š Loan origination or Application Fee: varies from $0-$500

š Insurance premiums for several months (amount depends on Homeowners insurance premium and the number of months’ reserve required by your lender)

š Prorated mortgage interest: (amount depends on the time of month you close the loan)

š Property taxes for several months (amount depends on tax amount and the time of year you close your loan).

š Title Settlement fee or title search fee: based on title company’s fees

š Title Insurance: based on mortgage amount

PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance): A monthly amount of about $60 per $100,000 of mortgage that you must pay if your mortgage exceeds 80% of the home’s value. In other words, if you don’t have 20% of the selling price as a down-payment you must pay to insure against your own default.

80/20 financing: A practice which allows you to finance up to 100% of the home’s selling price without having to pay monthly PMI. The only problem is that you have to take out two loans: the mortgage and a Home Equity Loan/Line of Credit. The finance charges on the 20% of the financing are often enough to discourage using this type of financing, but not always.

Paper or Plastic? Payment Methods

There are so many different ways out there to conduct transactions that it may be confusing which one is best. Not surprisingly, there is no one way that is best for every situation. I am going to go through many different common payment methods and give you situations in which you would or would not use that method.

Cash

Advantages: Cash is accepted almost anywhere, for almost any on-the-spot transaction. It is VERY rare to overdraft your bank account using cash.

Disadvantages: You can not mail cash. Stolen or lost cash is not replaceable. It can be dangerous to carry too much cash around. Sometimes it is even more of an inconvenience to use cash than a card (think gas stations here). Cash is very hard to track because most people don’t keep a record of it. If you accidentally accept a counterfeit bill, it is your loss.

Use cash: If you want to pay someone immediately, with no hassle to them or yourself. Accept cash up to a few thousand dollars for payment as long as you provide a receipt.

Don’t use cash: If you are paying back a debt or doing any kind of business transaction (such as buying a car), unless both parties have a copy of a receipt of some kind. Also, avoid using cash if you are doing a very large transaction—over several thousand dollars, unless you are in a secure place and have secure transport for the money.

Checks

Advantages: Checks are great for keeping track of purchases, because unlike cash, the bank keeps a copy of every check you write for 7 years. You also have the option of writing on the memo line, which further helps you remember what you spent your money on. Also unlike cash, if money is stolen from your account using a check, the bank will reimburse you (it can take up to a month though). You can also place a stop-payment on a check if it is lost or if you think it might have fallen into the wrong hands.

Disadvantages: Checks are burdensome to carry around and to write, and many places don’t accept checks because of the high risk of insufficient funds. Checks also have your account information, address, and name printed on the front and are sometimes used to steal money from your bank account. Also, once money from a check comes out of your account, you can not get it back unless fraud was somehow involved. For example, if you do business with a shady business person, you can’t get your money back from the bank if you use a check just because the person didn’t deliver the goods/services promised.

Use checks for: sending money in the mail (use a secure mailbox), giving money to family members, businesses, or others you trust, accepting money from family members or others you trust.

Don’t use checks for: Don’t accept checks from a person wanting to buy something from you or pay you for something unless you completely trust that person. Ask for cash; or, if the dollar amount is large, ask for a cashier’s check or wire transfer. Don’t send a check to or give a check to someone who you don’t trust since your account information is right on it.

Debit Card

Advantages: Debit cards are easy to carry around, easy to use, and are accepted almost everywhere. The funds used from a debit card are carefully tracked by the bank, so you can see where your money is going—although sometimes this tracking is somewhat cryptic. Stolen debit cards are replaceable, as are any funds that are stolen with a debit card.

Disadvantages: Couples using one checking account with two debit cards can easily overdraft their bank account if they are not very careful to keep track of and disclose all purchases to each other. Also, because of a complicated hold system that banks and merchants are on, using a debit card to reserve a hotel room or auto rental can cause you not to have access to your other money, usually for about 7 days. Money stolen using your debit card is recoverable, but it sometimes takes up to a month. For some people, this can cause an avalanche of late payments.

Use debit cards for: Everyday purchases, withdrawing from an ATM, getting cash-back at stores. If your debit card has a credit card logo, you can use it anywhere you might otherwise use a credit card. This is especially helpful to those who are careful with their checking account money, but not careful if they are using a credit card.

Don’t use debit cards for: Purchases at a retailer you feel is shady, and all reservations at hotels, flights, and rental cars (see above). You should consider putting large purchases on actual credit cards because they give you more protection. It is also advisable to avoid debit cards if you can’t seem to keep your checking account in the black when you use them.

Money Orders/Cashiers Checks

Advantages: Funds are more guaranteed than with standard checks. You don’t have to have a checking account to get them. You can place a stop-payment on them if they are lost or stolen.

Disadvantages: If you are accepting a cashier’s check, you must remember that the funds are not 100% guaranteed. There is a possibility of stop-payment, and also counterfeit/forged cashier’s checks are common. If you are sending a cashier’s check, it is important to note that once it is cashed, you can not get the money back.

Use Cashier’s checks for: Sending/accepting larger amounts of money to/from someone you love or making purchases from a reputable company. Use money orders to pay bills if you don’t have a checking account since it provides some proof of payment and you can send them in the mail.

Don’t use cashier’s checks for: making purchases from individuals or companies that you are not sure about. Example: you wouldn’t purchase a car from someone with a cashier’s check until you have the keys and title in your hands and you are certain you want the vehicle.

Online Bill-pay

Advantages: The advances in online bill-pay make it easier than ever to pay almost anyone from the comfort of your home with no stamps, envelopes, or checks. Additionally, most bill-pay systems don’t even put your checking account number on the front of the check, and even guarantee on-time payment! Furthermore, they allow you to be in complete control of how much/when your payment is and often even when the money comes out of your account. People who pay their bills online have fewer instances of fraud than those still sending out checks in the mail. Companies like to accept bill-pay because most banks send guaranteed money.

Disadvantages: You have to have access to a computer with internet, and some banks have confusing systems. Also, since you are still in complete control, if you don’t set up an automatic, recurring payment, you might still be late on your payment if you forget to send it out.

Use bill-pay for: Paying almost all of your bills. Some banks even allow you to send a paper check with bill-pay to anyone in the United States—and they pay the postage.

Don’t use bill-pay for: Paying someone who needs money today or tomorrow because banks frequently still have to mail a check just like you would.

E-pay, automatic payment, electronic billing, etc

E-pay is when a company electronically takes money out of your account or credit card automatically, without sending a check or using your bank’s bill-pay.

Advantages: Since the money is sent electronically, it is very fast—often the same day. If you sign up for recurring e-pay, you will never have a late payment with that company unless the money is not in your account on the day the debit should happen. Many companies will give you some kind of incentive to set up e-pay since they are much less likely to have to deal with insufficient funds checks and late payments. E-payments are also disputable with your bank.

Disadvantages: You are giving this company access to your account. Some companies have been known to just take from you whatever amount they think you owe, if at one time you gave them authorization to make an e-pay. Gyms, insurance companies, internet service providers, and cell phone companies are often problematic. It is much harder to dispute a bill after you have paid it, and if you allow a company to have e-pay access to your account, it is difficult to prevent them from getting the money they think they are owed. Sometimes, unscrupulous companies can get an e-pay through even if you place a stop-payment on the payment simply by changing the dollar amount by a few cents or slightly altering the requestor’s name.

Use e-pay for: making payments to any company who you trust and does not make frequent changes to your monthly bill. To make it safer, you can often also use e-pay through your credit card, that way if you run into problems, you can just shut down your card instead of your checking account.

Don’t use e-pay for: making payments to anyone who you don’t trust, and it is recommended to avoid such payments to anyone who has any type of renewable contract.

Wire Transfer

Advantages: Wire transfer is an excellent way to get guaranteed money from one place to another very quickly.

Disadvantages: Wire transfers nearly always cost money. The amount of the fee depends on the financial institution, but be aware that both the sender and the receiver almost always have to pay something. Also, it is important to note that once you send a wire transfer, the money is gone, just like cash. For this reason, many scam artists request to be paid via wire transfer.

Use wire transfers for: Sending money to a foreign country; sending money quickly to a loved one; sending large amounts of money between two of your accounts, sending guaranteed funds to a business you trust.

Don’t use wire transfers for: sending money to anyone you don’t completely trust, or for goods/services not yet provided. Remember, there is no way to get wired money back.

Direct Deposit

Advantages: The money goes into your account automatically. You don’t have to go to the bank, you don’t have to drive to pick up your check if you are sick or on vacation, and your money is available immediately to pay checks or pull out cash. Most banks will give you a better checking account if you can get direct deposit set up because they know you will more likely stay with their bank if you do.

Disadvantages: Direct deposit payments can generally only be sent to you by an employer or government institution. Some employers give non-direct deposit employees their checks a day earlier than the direct deposit goes in. It generally takes a couple of pay-periods for direct deposit to set up, change, or cancel. Small employers who have trouble making payroll are not going to be better just because they have direct deposit. Use Direct deposit: For employment checks, tax returns, and social security payments.

Don’t use direct deposit: If you are planning to change banks very soon.

Credit Card

Advantages: Credit cards are easy to use, and have many purchase incentives to urge frequent use. They are also the safest way to do transactions with non-reputable companies or people since you can usually dispute them if something goes wrong. Another extremely nice benefit is that if someone (such as a rental car company) puts a hold on your credit card for say, $300, it will not affect the money in your checking account (and possibly ruin your vacation). It is better to have a disputed item on a credit card, because unlike a debit card, which ties up your money until the dispute is resolved, you are not required to pay the disputed amount (or interest on it) unless the dispute falls through.

Disadvantages: most people have a very hard time resisting making superfluous purchases with a credit card. Studies have shown over and over again that people spend more if they are using a credit card vs. cash or even a debit card. Rewards and points are making the problem even worse. Credit cards are responsible for the financial ruin of many people, and it is not hard to see why, when you consider that a) people spend more on their cards than they otherwise would—making it difficult or impossible to pay off every month b) interest rates are generally very high and c) late fees and other fees are often overwhelming.

Use credit cards: For any purchase from a company you don’t trust; internet purchases; for large purchases to get a free warranty (check with your card to see details); for rental cars to get automatic insurance (again, check your card); for hotel rooms, and for flights. You can also usually safely accept credit cards through companies like paypal for things you sell to people either online or elsewhere, as long as the amount isn’t too large.

Don’t use credit cards: to get cash advances; to put money in your account; or to make everyday purchases if you are afraid you are not disciplined enough to do so responsibly.

Starting a Business

There are so many things out there advertising “Work from Home!” or “Make thousands of dollars just by typing!” Unfortunately, genuine stay-at-home money-making opportunities are extremely rare and if they do exist, they are never easy. So how can you pull in a few extra dollars every month without getting taken for a ride?


Join an Existing (legitimate) Organization: The advantage here is that you do not have to create a company name or reputation. It already exists. I am thinking of solid, well-known companies such as: Mary Kay, Avon, Gold Canyon Candles, and Pampered Chef.

Don’t be fooled into thinking though, that your costs will be extremely low or that you will be making money hand-over-fist in no time flat. Be prepared with a marketing strategy and a good chunk of money to invest (the amount depends on the company you join). Be prepared to dedicate a fair amount of time to your business before you break even and be willing to wait a while before making a profit. Also, make sure to keep in mind that in order to succeed in most of these organizations, you have to be an excellent salesperson. A good way to decide if you have what it takes is to first talk to several people who are successful and several who have been unsuccessful with the business. Watch out for the phrase “I made X dollars in one night!” as there is not enough information in that statement. How much money and time did that person put in before getting to that point? Are those types of earnings normal for the average salesperson?

Here are a few of the questions you will want to ask yourself before getting started:

  • š How am I going to market myself?
  • š Do I personally have a passion for the products or services offered?
  • š How many of my friends or associates would buy this product/service from me?
  • š Do I have enough money for sufficient advertising?
  • š Am I willing to dedicate the time necessary to build this business?
  • š Do I have the space to store inventory (if applicable)?
  • š Is this company reputable?
  • š How am I going to separate my personal and business finances? Hint: DON’T mix them!

Start a business from scratch: The advantage here is that you can do whatever you have a passion for, exactly how you want to do it and you are solely responsible for the reputation of your company. You also have the major advantage of getting to decide where all of the revenue goes since you are not building someone else’s business for them. Unfortunately, most people who start a company do not really stop long enough to consider whether their idea will actually work before investing thousands of dollars and many hours of time. Since you are the pioneer of this business, you have a MUCH longer list of considerations to mull over before getting started:

š What is your product/service?

š What group of people will be your main customers? Rich? Poor? Old? Young? Male? Female? Remember that EVERY successful business has a specific market of people they target.

š What will your company name be? Does the name appeal to your target customers? Is the name available for registration in your state? Is it available for registration nationally?

š Is there an available domain name that complements your company name?

š Where am I going to get the funding for my start up costs? Savings? Friends? A Loan?

š Who is going to design our logo? If I am designing it, does my design appeal to my target customers?

š Who is going to design and host my website? How much will that cost?

š Does my logo copy, fax, and email well? You want your business to have a professional appearance for any target market.

š Do I have any competitors? Should I target the same audience as they do? Why should people choose my company over theirs? How can I let my customers know in an instant why they should choose me?

š BIG QUESTION: Is the money I can make from this going to be worth the time, effort, and money I am going to put into it?

As you might expect, these are just a few of the hundreds of considerations you need to make before beginning. Whatever you do, make sure that you have a solid business plan that contains as much detail about how you will run your business as you can think of. My sister and I started a small slideshow business (see it at www.eventslideshows.com) and spent hours and hours of designing, thinking, discussing, and running around before we even had one customer. We didn’t have a lot of money for advertising, and most of the advertising we did do yielded very little. As a result, our small business is still very small and it took us a year to recoup the money we put into it. Fortunately, we don’t mind because we very much enjoy doing what we are doing and never planned to become a huge business anyway. Although I started out with a very carefully calculated list of expenses and we were extremely careful with our spending, our start-up cost ended up being about three times what I initially planned. I have spoken with many other business owners who agree that business always seems to cost a lot more than you anticipate. You should also expect to put a lot of time into your business before you begin making any real money. So, plan it out and go for it!

Summer Savings

With vacations, lessons, camps, and school shopping, it can be easy to break the bank during the summer. Here are a few tips for saving money in some areas so you can splurge in other areas that really are fun!

Vacations:

Vacations can be very inexpensive or very expensive. Not surprisingly, the kids won’t really care where you go or how much you spend, they most enjoy the quality time with you. With that in mind:

Try house-swapping. For a small fee you can look into a database of other people who are willing to swap with you. If you have kids, make sure the other people do too. It can save you tons of money on hotel bills and allow you to use a full kitchen to make meals that you can buy at a grocery store instead of eating out all the time.

Try taking a tour of your own town. If you had guests coming from a foreign country, where would you be sure to take them? Has your family even been to all those places?

Plan at least a couple of icebox meals every day. As kids we loved eating out of the cooler on trips. Our mom would always pack soda and snacks that we didn’t normally keep around the house and it made it even more fun. Grocery shopping in another place is always a fun experience too.

Go camping. You can save a bundle if you enjoy camping and you can almost always find a nice place to camp near major attractions like theme parks. Even if you have to buy all the gear, it usually costs less than a couple nights at a hotel.

Don’t buy extra insurance on the rental car. If you pay with a Mastercard or Visa, they usually cover the exact same incidents as the extra expensive insurance the rental car company will try to sell you. Check with your card company to be sure though.

School Clothes:

Although it is tempting to outfit your children with as many clothes as possible, it is better to only buy a few sets of clothes. Not only does it save you money on the clothes themselves, but it saves time and money on laundry later. Not only that, but it is very likely that your younger children will grow out of their clothes and shoes at least once before the year is up.

If you have a good thrift store near your home, you should check it out for at least the kids’ clothes. Often, children’s clothing shows very little wear and is fairly new compared to adult clothing.

If you have close friends or relatives with a child just a little older than yours, you can ask them to have their kids’ clothes after they are done with them. Most people are very understanding about the expense of clothes and would rather give them to you than to a thrift store anyway.

Buy with your child’s activities in mind. If you have a very active child (like most), avoid colors and fabrics that will stain or tear very easily. There is nothing more expensive than replacing clothing just a few days after only a couple of wears.

Don’t buy just for labels. If your older child just has to have the latest label, insist that he/she pay the difference between what you would normally buy and the cost of their must-have item. On the other hand, there are certain brands that hold up better than others, sometimes it is worth a couple of extra dollars to buy a shirt that won’t come apart at the seams after a few washes. Generally speaking, you can still easily find good bargains on quality made clothing if you look for them.

Utilities:

Get a programmable thermostat and set it to allow the house to get a little hotter during the day if no one is home.

Water plants and lawns at night so the water will have a chance to soak into the ground before the sun evaporates it.

Don’t over-water your lawn. Watering too frequently not only raises your water bill, but it makes it so the grass roots don’t go down as deep, making them susceptible to disease and drought.

Wash your dishes in the dishwasher, not by hand and fill it up before starting a load. Surprisingly, most newer dishwashers use less water than hand-washing.

Fix leaking fixtures and running toilets.

Waste Not, Want Not

One of the most important parts of staying within your food budget is properly using the food you already have. It is easy to allow perishables to go to waste, but there is a simple way to make sure that you waste less.


While planning your meals, consider the items in your refrigerator and freezer that will not be good much longer and plan to use them in upcoming meals. Sometimes it is difficult to know what to do with certain food items, but it is much easier if you keep a list of how to use items that you find yourself consistently throwing out because they were wasted.

Making a list of each item and meals you most commonly use them in should help you plan around items that have short shelf-lives. Just start a notebook that you keep near your cookbooks and add a few meal ideas here and there. Here are a few ideas to get you started, but the best list will be the one you make yourself!

Tomatoes:

  • š Tomato Salad
  • š Regular salad
  • š Deli-Style Sandwich
  • š Fresh Salsa
  • š Pizza topper
  • š Hamburger
  • š Tomatoes with Mozzarella
  • š Mac and Cheese or Fettuccini topper
  • š Egg, Tomato, and Cheese Sandwich
  • š Sun-Dry

Strawberries:

  • š Strawberry sundae
  • š Strawberry Milkshake
  • š Strawberry Lemonade
  • š Smoothie
  • š Strawberry Preserves
  • š Strawberry Pie
  • š Strawberry Shortcake
  • š Cut/Sweetened/Frozen

Chicken:

  • š Chicken-noodle Soup
  • š Chicken-potato soup
  • š Chicken casserole
  • š Chicken enchiladas/tacos/quesadillas/taquitos
  • š Chicken salad sandwich
  • š Chef’s Salad
  • š Grilled chicken
  • š Chicken stir fry
  • š Chicken with Chinese sauce
  • š Pan or Oven Fried Chicken



Other things you might want to add to your list are: avocados, bananas, celery, carrots, lettuce, cucumbers, beef, pork, etc. The best thing about having a notebook handy like this is that you don’t have to worry about things going bad when you stock up on a sale.

Saving Money on Groceries the Painless Way

Many of you have probably heard about methods to saving lots of money on groceries by paying to join a service, buying newspapers, clipping coupons, watching sales, waiting for your coupons to match sales and then making a grand trip to the grocery store (or stores) and getting $200 worth of groceries for which you pay only $50. There is only one problem; that method takes a lot of time and you end up with stuff you may or may not need.

If you would like to get more of the food you use everyday for less, keep reading. I am going to give you a few tips you can use to save money on groceries without clipping coupons. The reason I chose to eliminate coupons is because they are usually only for name-brand items, they are time-consuming, and they can be messy if you don’t have a good organizational system.

You are more than welcome to add to your savings by using coupons. I like to use coupons that will save me at least $1.00 on an item that I would buy even without a coupon.

Methods

Each method can be used alone or combined with other methods to maximize savings

Know your prices and stock-up on sales:

This is especially true if you have a special diet. Example, if you are trying to eat whole-wheat bread instead of white, it is good to know what it usually sells for so you can keep your eyes out for specials and stock-up.

The most important items to know your prices on are the more expensive items where you can save dollars instead of pennies when a store puts it on sale. Examples are meats, cheeses, milk, etc.

Always be on the lookout for your most frequently used items costing less somewhere other than where you normally shop. I like to check the dollar store for soaps and cleaners.

Check your paper Ads or go online to www.ShopLocal.com or www.Cairo.com

When you browse your ads, make a list of the things you feel are a really good deal (loss leaders) and/or that inspire menu ideas. Be aware that some stores (including Wal-Mart) will price match your items if you don’t feel like making multiple stops. Often, I find that there are only one or two stores who really have things I want that week.

Hit the store for only a quick stop during another errand and only buy the items on your list for that store. The best time to go to the store is very early in the morning if you can manage that. The worst time is probably after 4pm on a weekday and after 9am on a weekend.

Make a Menu and a list:

When making your menu, consider the sales and the items on your shelf or in your refrigerator that are nearing the end of their useful life. Put on your list things that you need to make your meals.

Know about how much your meals cost so that you can use the least expensive ones when money is tight

Either go to the store rarely or stick diligently to your list:

Additional Tips

No time to cook ideas

  • It usually costs less (and is often healthier) to buy a pre-packaged meal than it does to go get fast food.
  • It doesn’t cost much extra time to double the amount you would normally make. Then you can refrigerate or freeze the leftovers for an easy and quick meal later.

If you do eat out:

  • Consider getting take-out from your favorite restaurant, it avoids the cost of tips
  • Skip the soda, just get water
  • Go out to a restaurant just for dessert or shakes
  • Check out your favorite restaurant at lunch time if it costs less

Storage & Freezing ideas

  • When bell-peppers or onions are in season, I cut them up and freeze them.
  • Shredded cheese freezes nicely
  • Bread freezes well too
  • When freezing meat, make sure that it is in an airtight package and that it is separated into useable portions. I like to use Glad press n’seal.
  • Milk can be frozen if you take about ½ cup out of it first.
  • Buy boneless roasts or round steaks when they are on sale and have the store grind it for you. When you have the store grind your meat for you, it is very delicious and inexpensive and you always know exactly what is in it.

Here are some examples of food items on sale where I live:

  • Milk 1.99 or less/gal. (available about every other week—grocery ads)
  • Bread, Orowheat or similar 2.00/loaf (Costco, must buy 2)
  • Cheese $3/lb or $1.50/8oz (available about 1 time per month—grocery ads)
  • Butter $1.51/lb (Costco, must buy 4)
  • Boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1.99/lb or less (nearly every week—grocery ads)
  • I don’t buy meat unless it is for $2/lb or less on boneless meat and $1/lb or less on bone-in meat in the grocery ads. Then I stock-up and store in the freezer.
  • Sour Cream and cottage cheese $1/lb (1-2times per month—grocery ads)
  • Produce: in-season produce is generally least expensive and highest quality at the local farmer’s market (unless another store is having an unusually good sale)

After just a few months of taking notice of the ads in your area, you will become very familiar with what sale prices you can expect on the items your family uses most.

Preventing Account Fraud

Many times you hear identity theft and account fraud used interchangeably. Account fraud is a type of identity theft and occurs very often, especially during the holidays. Because of that, I want to cover it all by itself. Account fraud is where someone gains unauthorized access to your existing checking, savings, or credit card accounts and withdraws money or uses them to make purchases. Account fraud can usually only be cleaned up after many hours of anguish, frustration, and with the help of your bank, which is why it is a good idea to try to prevent it if possible. Because banks nearly always refund the money their customers lose to fraud, account fraud is one of the big reasons that bank fees are always climbing.

Rule #1: Never NEVER put checks in your home mailbox! Always use online billpay, take the bill to the blue mailbox, or take it to the post office. Mail theft is a very common and easy way for criminals to get a hold of your checks. They take the check out of the envelope and put it in a special chemical solution that lifts the ink right off the check. (Banks call this “check washing”). Then they write the check to themselves or whomever they please and forge your signature. Worse yet, they take your check and use it to order or print more checks with your routing number and account number so that they can write out as many checks as they want.

Rule #2: Don’t take your hands off your purse or wallet when in public. The most common type of account fraud actually occurs because a wallet was lost or stolen. Criminals can easily use most of the items in a wallet for personal gain.

Rule #3: Don’t ever respond to an email that appears to be from your bank or financial institution. If you believe action is required, type the URL of your bank into the address bar and go from there. Crooks will often create emails that look identical to one your bank might send you saying that it is urgent to click on the link and re-enter your personal information. They often claim that if you don’t your account will be frozen or shut-down. This technique is called “Phishing” and most banks warn about it on their websites and even state that they will never send you an email asking for personal information.

Rule #4: Never give out account numbers, credit card numbers or personal information to someone who is calling you. Your financial institutions should never ask for your private information if they are the ones calling.

Rule #5: Check your account activity often. Even if you follow all of the above rules, there is always still a chance that you could be a victim. The sooner you report a theft, the less damage will be done. Also, since crooks usually hit hard and fast, law enforcement is more likely to be able to catch the thief if you report the crime promptly.

Here are a few ways crooks can get your info that are difficult (if not impossible) to prevent: (please note that these crimes are much less common than those above)

~An unscrupulous employee at a reputable business takes down your credit card information and uses it later.

~A bank employee sells your information to a crime ring (if caught, the employee will never be allowed to work at a bank again).

~A shady business owner uses a special machine to record the information from your credit card’s electronic strip and program it onto his own blank credit card.

I do not point these out so that you will become paranoid, just so you will know how important it is to check your account very frequently and study the activity for any suspicious transactions.

Do You NEED a Credit Card?

I know we are counseled not to have credit-card debt, but in this day most people find themselves needing a credit card at one time or another whether or not they use it to accumulate debt. I was in the banking industry for years and saw many situations where people really needed a credit card and didn’t have one. I am going to give you a few scenarios where you would really be best off using a credit card. Please understand that I am NOT encouraging you to get into debt, but to pay off the card immediately. You know if you are a person who will not be able to avoid the temptation. For those people, it really is better not to have a card at all.

Times you would need a credit card:

1. For a real emergency—I am not talking about an emergency where Macy’s is having a gigantic sale and you don’t have a dime in your checking account. I am talking about if you are one of the millions of Americans who doesn’t have a savings account (we’ll talk about that some other time) and your car just broke down. These mini-emergencies are often best covered by a credit card because: a) it costs less and is much faster than most loans and does not have a penalty if you pay off immediately and b) it costs much less than the popular payday loan option. If this should happen to you, try not to take out a cash advance, they are more expensive than if you can simply charge the expense.

2. If you are a victim of checking account fraud. It generally takes the bank a week or more to sort through everything and figure out how much money they need to refund to you and then do it. In the mean-time your checking account may be completely frozen and you have no access to the money that was once there. If you have a credit card, you can just go on with your life and repay the card balance as soon as the bank gets you back your funds.

3. If you are going on vacation. Yes, I know your debit card has a visa logo on it, but that doesn’t mean that you should use it to book your hotel, rental car, or flight! All of these vacation expenses are much better put on a credit card. Why? Because hotels often “hold” more money than you are planning to spend there, leaving you high and dry if you needed the extra to spend on vacation. Example: you want to stay at ABC Hotel and it costs $250 for the nights you plan to stay. They request a $450 hold on your account just in case you abscond with a robe or vandalize the property. When you check-out, your charge is actually only $250, but the remaining $200 can sometimes be on hold for up to a week later! If the card was linked to your checking account, this could ruin the rest of your trip, but as long as you have a good limit on your credit card, you will not even notice the process. Rental cars sometimes do the same thing, but another reason to use credit cards with rental cars is because most Visa and MasterCard (credit card only) provide collision insurance on rental cars for no extra cost.

4. If you are purchasing something from someone who you are not sure about (example: online purchase). Let’s say you decide to purchase a fantastic item online from a store you are not familiar with and a week later, you have this $1,400 charge in Hong-Kong. If you used your debit card to make the transaction, you will have to wait for the fraud department to refund your money (that could take a couple weeks). If you used your credit card, just call customer service and dispute the charge. You will not be responsible for the charge or the interest for the entire time that the charge is disputed. After their fraud department solves it, the charge will simply disappear.

5. This is for VERY disciplined people ONLY! Okay, if you are an extremely responsible person and you are 100% sure that you can pay off your balance every single month, go ahead and charge your gas, groceries, prescriptions, and all other monthly point-of-sale expenses on a rewards credit card. There are a couple credit cards out there that will give you 5% cash or rewards back on your purchases at gas stations, grocery stores, and pharmacies and 1% on everything else. I like to use my points to get Home Depot gift cards and have gotten a total of over $300 in the last couple years. Some people prefer frequent flyer miles, others prefer cash-back. The only thing you have to be really careful about is that you don’t spend more than you otherwise would just because you get more back and watch out for annual fees—some cards have them and others don’t.